Diagonal Street
Diagonal Street is a unique, historic part of Johannesburg’s central business district (CBD). The CBD covers about six square kilometres of the city and is packed with skyscrapers. It is this high-rise sprawl of some of the tallest buildings in Africa, including the Carlton Centre, Marble Towers, Trust Bank Building, Ponte City Apartments and 11 Diagonal Street that gives Johannesburg its iconic skyline.
Sunset on Diagonal Street. Photo courtesy Gauteng Tourism Authority
Eleven Diagonal Street, owned by Absa Bank, is a unique Johannesburg building. It was designed by the renowned architect, Helmut Jahn, and resembles a multi-faceted diamond, with massive glass sheets placed at varying angles reflecting different images of the CBD. It signals that you have found Diagonal Street in the City of Gold.
The area west of Diagonal Street is shown on early maps as no-man’s land. In the mid-1880s, Indian settlers took advantage of this, settling on the edge of the city and buying “white” property and setting up businesses through nominees. Although an issue of the Standard and Diggers News of 1897 refers to “Diagonal Street”, the well-known street was also known as “Jubilee Street” in the days of the gold rush. Building boomed and in 1896 the Kazerne Building, on the corner of Jeppe and Diagonal streets, was erected and the Victorian neo-classical Carmel Building was built the following year.
Diagonal Street and its surrounds developed into a racially mixed area in which trading continued despite the prescriptive Gold Law of 1908 and the Asiatic Land Tenure and Trading Amendment Act of 1919, which restricted land acquisition, trading and occupancy rights. Lack of enforcement of these laws was partly due to the fact that the town centre had shifted eastwards towards Rissik and Eloff streets, allowing marginalised races and religions to create the eclectic culture of Diagonal Street.
The two-storey Pie House that occupies a triangle between Diagonal and Sauer streets exhibits the 1930s “flatiron” design. Oskop House at 42 Diagonal Street, built in 1944, was originally a three- or four-storey building that was increased to seven floors in 1949. These buildings add to the mishmash of architecture that distinguishes the area.
Street vendor selling braai milies. Photo courtesy Gauteng Tourism Authority
In 1950, the Group Areas Act was implemented and the Diagonal Street precinct was declared a white area. This led to urban decay and the area was earmarked for redevelopment.
The battle to maintain the CBD and Diagonal Street has been ongoing since then. It became critical in the late 1990s, when lack of urban management and rising crime saw accounting giant Ernst & Young and the Johannesburg Stock Exchange migrate north to Sandton. Boarded-up buildings became a common sight in Johannesburg’s CBD and heritage protectors continue to battle to preserve buildings such as the Victorian shops, with their balconies and filigree work, situated between Pritchard and President streets.
Despite the woes of downtown Johannesburg there is evidence of urban renewal and rejuvenation, with initiatives such as tax-relief measures to attract inner-city property owners and bring investors back to the CBD. Do not be put off venturing into the city to visit the worthwhile and interesting Museum Africa, SAB World of Beer, the Market Theatre and the Oriental Plaza.
Tours of downtown Johannesburg can be arranged with history and urban heritage specialists. Diagonal Street today is a great place for shopping. In the tradition of the Indian traders of the last century, you can find a miscellany of material, including bold African prints, hardware and kitchenware. There is also a plethora of muti (traditional medicine) shops selling African traditional remedies. It is the vibrant and diverse personalities that you meet in this part of Johannesburg that makes a visit to Diagonal Street unique.
Visiting hours
Monday to Friday from 09h00 to 13h00